Against Natural Wines
“The case for natural wines has always been philosophic and aesthetic.” Slate’s Mike Steinberger says the word ‘natural’ is meaningless in the wine industry.
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“When you strip away all the rhetoric and dogma about ‘natural wines,’ what are you are left with is essentially just a slogan, used by a group of people to champion some wines that happen to please their taste buds and/or sensibilities. It is a highly charged phrase, as numerous chat-room brawls have demonstrated, because it clearly implies that other wines are somehow ‘unnatural’ and therefore inferior. More importantly, it is surely only adding to the confusion that consumers already feel.”
